Best Exhaust for 6.0 Power Stroke Review

Buyer’s Guide

The exhaust is responsible for getting rid of toxic fumes and keeping the engine from overheating. It’s one of the most important systems in any vehicle and comes in all shapes and sizes. Is cat-back better than axle-back, though? What’s the deal with dual-pipe exhausts? Should you go for a mild, or a roaring tone? And what about the materials? Yes, there’s a lot to talk about, so, let’s get to it right now!

Cat-Backs vs. Axle-backs

With exhausts, there’s always a choice between axle-back and cat-back systems – that’s the first decision you gotta make. Without getting into technical details, let me just say that axle-backs are simpler, easier to install, and come at a more affordable price. The reason: they only include the tip, rear-end pipes, and a muffler. With that said, most drivers actually only replace those parts – the exhaust tip and tubes (they corrode or deform because of the heat).

So, that makes axle-back a decent investment. And remember: this system is much louder than cat-backs and the factory pipes. Plus, the tone is quite aggressive, almost like a roar. Some Ford owners like that, while others prefer a milder tone. That’s what they’ll get with a cat-back. Plus, since it also includes a catalytic converter, you can expect a solid boost in HP/torque, MPG, and even acceleration. Cat-backs are more expensive, though, and harder to install.

Single-pipe or Twin-Pipe Layout

The short answer: go with a single-pipe design. First of all, this is the most common layout for the vast majority of trucks on American roads. Thus, when the exhaust starts to malfunction, pretty much any mechanic will be able to make sense of it. Besides, a twin-pipe system usually costs more. And what about the performance difference, you might ask? Well, true, two pipes are better than one.

To be fair, this mostly refers to extreme situations. I’m talking about off-roading on uncharted lands, participating in racing events, doing mud racing – stuff like that. For the average PowerStroke truck owner, a dual-pipe exhaust is an overkill. I’m not saying it’s worthless, but a bit too much.

Exhaust Tone: Roaring vs. Soft Growling

Once you’ve decided between cat-backs, axle-backs, and single vs. twin-pipe designs, it’s time to talk about the sound. As I just mentioned, axle-backs are much louder than cat-backs. For off-roading and making the neighbors jealous, the louder the exhaust tone, the better. On the other hand, this isn’t a very good option for daily driving. Keep in mind that the all-consuming roar comes through when you’re starting the engine.

That won’t be very appropriate in traffic or at a parking lot somewhere. It’s up to you to decide this one: if you mostly use the PowerStroke-run Ford for driving into the wilderness, the over-the-top growl will be right up the alley. And if not, you’ll be better off with a more “civilized” tone. It will still be a lot better than the mediocre rumble of the factory gear.

Is Aluminum Better than Steel?

Yes, in many ways, aluminum is the superior metal. It is lightweight, more durable, and, above all, has a higher rust resistance. Over time, the exhaust pipes corrode, and you want as much protection against that as possible. Aluminum is better at handling the heat as well. No matter how efficient the catalytic converter is, the tubes will still have to deal with extremely hot toxic vapors.

Stainless steel is another decent option. It’s not as impressive but comes at a cheaper price. However, if it’s galvanized (zinc-coated) steel, it will actually be stronger against corrosion than aluminum. Thanks to the protective coating, it easily “beats” rust in all of its forms. And, if you see 409 or 304 steel in the specs, that’s also good news. The reason: chromium boasts high resistance to rust.

How to Check for Exhaust Leak on 6.0 Power Stroke

No matter how expensive, efficient, and reliable the exhaust system is, it will give up on you at some point. Friction with the road, temperature extremes, and all those toxic fumes rushing through the pipes do leave a mark. This is especially true for heavy-duty engines like the PowerStroke that make the tubes run that “extra mile”. Exhaust leaks happen with brand-new parts too, by the way.

Oftentimes, truck drivers complain about bad performance due to leaks in a new set of pipes. And the most common reason for it is poor alignment or maintenance defects. That’s why it’s very important to make exhaust diagnosis a part of your maintenance routine. The sooner you find signs of wear, tear, or a tiny crack, the easier (and cheaper) it will be to fix that.

Leaks are the biggest problem when it comes to exhaust pipes. When not treated ASAP, they can lead to all kinds of trouble like engine overheating, a dramatic drop in performance, and higher EGTs. So, how do you inspect the tubes properly? Well, you won’t have to crawl underneath the truck just yet. First, start the truck and look for any visual signs of a leak.

It would be best to have a friend help you out with this: while you’re firing up the engine, they’ll be standing on the side/in front of the hood checking for leaks. Ok, start the vehicle, switch it to Gear, and power-brake it. Put one foot on the gas, the other one on the brake, and push them to the floor. Keep your feet on the pedals until the truck starts to lift a bit. Let off the gas pedal once the tires start spinning, but don’t let go of the brake yet.

If there’s a leak, you’ll see smoke (or, rather, fumes) escaping the hood. Usually, the leaks occur where the turbo connects to the up pipes. Loosen the pipes, put them back, and ensure a tight connection – that should fix it right up. But what if there’s no smoke coming out from the upper tubes? Well, that’s when you need to crawl under the truck. Again, check the spots where different pipes connect.

I’m talking about the up pipes to the manifold, the converter to the tubes, the muffler, et cetera. And if some of the pipes are cracked, that means a replacement is in order. Or, when on a tight budget, try fixing the cracks/leaks by using sealant, some adhesive tape, or clamps. And do remember that leaks aren’t always easy to spot. You might not see it, or not hear it, but it will be there. So, be very thorough!

Does your Vehicle Downpipe Size Support the Muffler?

Unless you’re a pro mechanic and/or know your way around the exhaust system, you’re probably not familiar with the term “downpipe”. In contrast to a factory set of pipes that have lots of bends, a downpipe is mostly straight. This allows it to be more effective compared to the “choking” nature of the stock tubing. Mostly, downpipes are found in turbo-charged cars and do a pretty decent job of maximizing overall performance.

You’ll get a boost in airflow/filtration, less restrictive piping, and smoother ride quality. They connect the turbocharger to the exhaust pipes, turning it into a part of the system that functions like clockwork. Now, you won’t get to enjoy any of these perks unless the downpipe fits the rest of the exhaust like a glove. Yes, it’s very important to make sure the downpipe is a match for the muffler.

Downpipes are almost always larger than the stock pipes. Oh, and keep in mind that in some cases, to make it easier for the fumes to exit the system, you might have to get rid of the converter and the resonators. Yes, that’s not a very eco-friendly decision, but it is what it is. Or, it can be a high-flowing converter, depending on the configuration. So, that pretty much leaves the muffler.

And it all comes down to finding the right fit for your truck. So, measure the diameter of the muffler (and the rest of the exhaust system, while you’re at it). Next, use those measurements to pick a compatible downpipe. Compatibility is the #1 issue with tubing: it needs to be perfect for the system to operate properly. It works the other way around too, by the way. Say, you’ve got a downpipe all set up, and the muffler starts to leak.

If you can’t fix it or decide to buy a new one, make sure that your downpipe size supports the new muffler. Otherwise, the new gear simply won’t fit. You could try and reduce the muffler’s diameter, of course, but that’s not a very simple procedure and you might end up ruining it.